December 11, 2024
A city of white, pink, blue, green -- cradled by lush rocky mountains blanketed by deep evergreen forests, Tangier is one of the most beautiful destinations we have ever visited. When I awoke that morning at 4:23 AM, the ship had already docked. I watched the city slowly bathed in pink with sunrise, the tower of the Kasbah looming over our ship. Everywhere were beautiful streets and walkways, with stunning architecture.
Traveling up the verdant mountains that overlook where the Mediterranean and the Atlantic merge, we saw a landscape covered in mansions, estates and villas — many with views of Gibraltar and Spain. Crystalline waters lap against peaceful white beaches, beaconing you to escape to the cooling sea breezes.
Although the weather was cold, flowers were everywhere — roses, bougainvillea, bird of paradise, angel trumpet. Citrus trees bulged with ripened fruit. Towering Norfolk Island Pines, blooming yellow trumpet trees (Tabebuia), and palm trees graced the numerous parks and green spaces. Tangier truly took my breath away. It was how I would picture “the promised land.” No wonder the wealthiest of people from all over the world buy homes in the Tangier hills, to enjoy its cooling summer breezes and incredible views.
Walking through the narrow lanes of the Kasbah, with its neat clean lines and blue doors is thrilling. That was the best — the doors — blue, studded, decorated in wrought iron and carved wood or gilded with gold. In colorful markets, exotic fruits are piled high — pomegranate, prickly pear, bright orange persimmons. (I learned that tangerines originate from Tangiers — hence the name.). The old quarters are exceptionally clean, as if a brigade of workers came out at dawn to sweep the streets.
Tangier is one of the oldest cities in Morocco — over 2,500 years old. It is steeped in a multitude of civilizations, cultures, traditions, myth and history. (It is said to be the final resting place of Hercules — Hercules Cave is just outside the city.) Initially funded by the Carthaginian settlers in 5th Century B.C, Tangier became a strategic Berber town and then a Phoenician trading center. Tangier has been occupied by the Romans, Vandals, the Moors, the Portuguese, and the British. (In the 17th Century, the Portuguese gave Tangier as a wedding present to King Charles II when he married Portuguese Princess Catherine of Braganza.) In 1689, Moroccan Sultan Moulay Ismail and his army attacked Tangier and took it over from the British.
Tangier is famous as a refuge for many cultures, and in the 19th and 20th centuries, it was considered the home of international spies. Today Tangier is a vibrant mix of North African, Portugese, Spanish, English and French cultures.
Our tour and our guide were phenomenal. We visited Cap Spartel, a promontory projecting over the waters of the two seas, which looks to the setting sun, as well the gorgeous lighthouse.
I held a Moroccan eagle on my arm. We visited the Kasbah (fort), which is said to have been unchanged since Roman times, and was the traditional residence of the sultan and his harem. We toured the Kasbah Museum and the grand Socco market, which links the Medina to the new city. We relished Moroccan tea and delicacies in a beautiful old quarters restaurant, with rooftop views of the city.
As our ship left Tangier, the weather grew very rough. Seas were predicted to be 15-18 feet, and winds up to 58 mph. The ship surged forward at 18 knots, the seas hitting the head at 13 feet high, pitching the ship forward and pounding the bow into constant troughs of swells. At one point, the ship began listing toward port side, so the Captain warned us that he had to turn the ship. That was unlike anything I have ever experienced — talk about feeling nauseous! The Captain assured us that this was all normal and that we were safe — that the ship was built for it — but that we would be two hours late arriving in Gibraltar.
When people ask what our favorite destination was during this 42 day cruise, it is difficult to say, because we loved so many places. Yet, whenever I ponder that question, visions of Tangier dance through my mind.
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