Saturday and Sunday, April 1-2, 2023
When we arose on Saturday and looked out from our balcony, all we saw was a long crescent of sandy beach and a jetty almost two miles long. On the other side of the ship were hundreds of docked sailboats and what looked like a marina and some houses.
We disembarked from the ship about 9:35 A.M. to wait in line for a shuttle bus to transport us to the city of Ravenna. Finally, at 10:30, we were able to board the shuttle. The weather was in the low 50s, but sunny, and we were dressed in layers. It would warm up later to about 62 degrees, which felt wonderful for walking on our own in an unfamiliar country. In Ravenna, we would be encountering very few people who knew a few words in English.
First, we traveled past the port area, through a residential section with one outdoor restaurant and a modern glass bar and restaurant. Then we entered an industrial area that was reminiscent of Gary, Indiana or the industrial sections of New Orleans, Louisiana. It was massive and as to be expected, of course, it was ugly.
The next section resembled the marshes of Louisiana, especially the portion between Bay St. Louis, Mississippi and New Orleans via I-90. Little fishing shacks dotted the shores. What was unusual is that each fishing shack had an enormous square fishing net the width of the shack, and wenches that lowered the nets into the water. Ravenna was once a lagoon city. The Ravenna canals were covered over in the 15th century, but there are still many waterways, wide canals and marshes leading into the city.
The next section was lower income housing, mostly apartments or condos, and then we passed a huge old fort that we would love to have explored, but it looked like it might not have been open to visitors. Shortly after, we were dropped off downtown, across from the tourist center, which was closed, and in front of a huge building that was vacant and undergoing renovations. It was covered in graffiti. A gorgeous and dramatic monument was in front.
We studied the large map posted on a sign at the bus stop, that was completely in Italian. It showed railroad tracks on the right, and the Basilica di San Vitale on the left. We headed to the left. The longer we walked, the less it looked like an historical section, and the more graffiti and locals just standing around in clusters we saw. Then we spotted the railroad tracks. So we headed back in the direction from which we came. Right where the shuttle bus had stopped, there was a beautiful old church. It was very old brick, and had an entryway courtyard that was surrounded by a brick wall that was as tall as the church. I cringed at disrespectful graffiti someone had painted on the exterior of the lovely brick wall. Fortunately, the front door was open, so we walked inside.
It was an exquisite old church, with high brick ceilings held in place by crisscrossed dark wooden beams. In the back of the church was a vault containing the remains of a saint, but we could not read the inscription because it was either in Latin or Italian. We lit candles for our friend who is still in the hospital, prayed in the small chapel on the right side of the altar, and studied the antiquities throughout the church. Very old mosaics were displayed around the church as well.
Early Spring in Ravenna, the bright green leaves were just starting to show on the trees. Cliff and I were particularly enthralled with the pine trees. They were tall, with beautiful bark, but unlike our pine trees, there were no bare limbs — just a gorgeous canopy at the top. The pine needles were only about two inches long, growing in large clusters.
We walked a block, crossed the street, and entered a beautiful shopping area with pedestrian friendly streets (although bikes were weaving everywhere, and one woman actually drove her car right down a narrow lane of the shopping district). First, I peeked into a shop with gorgeous pastries and sandwiches on display. We walked past designer stores and little discount shops as well. The women’s clothing displayed in the windows were in bright spring colors. One window was decorated with all blue clothing, another in pinks, one in brilliant light greens. The walkways were stone and brick.
Then the walkways opened up into a stunning courtyard at the heart of the historic district. The buildings were beautifully preserved. In the center was a large grouping of huge canopies — a market. Stepping into that was a feast for the eyes and nose. The first large booth on the left had all kinds of breads — with the different choices of focaccia bread attracting my senses the most. The booth on the left had huge wheels of different cheeses on display, and the staff members were handing out samples. The displays under each canopy were massive. Next, we saw enormous displays of dried sausages. Then an amazing selection of all kinds of olives and olive mixes were in another booth. It was just fabulous! I’ve never seen such a phenomenal outdoor market.
Next we spotted a large outdoor eating area outside of a restaurant called Mr. Dante. We found a table in the shade and sat down. Joan ordered red wine and silky mushroom fettuccini. Cliff ordered a beer and the most amazing lasagna I have ever tasted, with béchamel sauce and beef ragu sauce. It was silky, deep with flavor, and absolutely decadent. I ordered Pino Grigio, which was the best I have ever had, and a cracker crust Margarita pizza that was a little too large for one person. Cliff and I shared the pizza and lasagna. Then I ordered tiramisu, which was outstanding. It also was silky and airy and perfectly balanced. What an amazing meal!
What was also amazing was the service! The wine, beer and food arrived so fast, it was like the waitress was “I Dream Of Jeannie.” We turned to look around after we ordered, and when we looked back down, there were our drinks in front of us. The next thing we knew, here came our fresh food, like magic. Many passengers and crew members from the ship were enjoying the restaurant as well.
Next, we walked to the right, past little shops, toward the Basilica di San Vitale. I marveled at the different colors of camellias blooming in pots outside of the shops. As we passed a long line going into a shop, a fellow passenger walked out and told us that the next possible tickets were for 5:00. We decided to enjoy looking at the gorgeous exterior of the buildings and grounds instead. The Basilica was enormous, and pristinely preserved. A few burial vaults were lined up inside the fencing that surrounds the basilica.
Across from the Basilica di San Vitale was another very old church, the Basilica Di San Giovanni Evangelista. Entrance was free, and there was hardly anyone inside. This one was even more beautiful than the first one we visited. Again, we lit candles and prayed. The statue of the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus was mesmerizing. Parts of the ceilings and walls were covered in frescoes. The ceiling was brick and dark beams like the first one, and there were white arches on marble pillars going down each side from front to back. Some of the pillars were starting to crumble at the bottom, so steel bands had been placed around the weak spots to hold them together. Also, like the first church, ancient mosaic art was on display throughout.
On our way out, we stopped at a gift shop to pick up a couple of little souvenirs, and then at a gelato shop, which we could not resist. I ordered strawberry for myself, and a vanilla with cherry swirls for Cliff. Joan ordered mint chocolate. It was soft as a cloud and so refreshening. Only 2 Euros each!
As we walked back to the shuttle bus, we savored every moment. When we returned to the ship, we watched surfboard sailing and beachgoers from our balcony and reflected on what a perfectly lovely day it was. The ship was very quiet, because many passengers had taken the train or private tours to other cities, such as Bologna, Florence, and Venice, for either a very long day trip or to spend the night.
On Sunday, it was a little colder and windier. We spent the day sleeping in, having an elegant lunch in the main dining room, and relaxing. The next three days will be Slovenia, Croatia, and Montenegro. Then we have one sea day. Then it is seven days in a row of different ports: Malta, Sicily, Sorrento, Rome, Villefranche, Marseille, and Barcelona. It will be a very busy two weeks!
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