Pisa, Italy

Saturday, November 23, 2024

Traversing the Mediterranean between the Strait of Gibraltar and the Port of Livorno, Italy, we were faced with rough swells rocking the ship in all directions. Erratic booms sounded loudly as the ship lurched upwards at the stern, shuddering, at erratic intervals, followed by massive seawater sprays obliterating our window views.  The ship’s stabilizers seemed powerless against the powerful swells.

A chilly 30 degree morning greeted us, alleviated only by the bright sun warming our faces. Our excursion to Pisa wasn’t until 1:00, so we had time to relax and recover from the prior two rough sea days.  Highly industrialized, the Port of Livorno is the gateway to Pisa and Florence. The port requires shuttles for cruise passengers, because passengers are not allowed to walk the winding industrial road leading to the city.

Our motor coach pulled up a bit late as we waited, shivering.  Once on the bus, we were able to enjoy views of Livorno's Renaissance era fortifications.

The ride to Pisa was only about 35 minutes, traversing through the winding port, bypassing the pretty city of Livorno, to hit a country road, with hills dominating the horizon.  Throughout the Tuscany region are strikingly beautiful pine trees growing in thick rows and groves lining the road and blanketing the countryside.  The stone pine (Pinus Pinea), is tall, with a massive, rounded umbrella-like canopy. The pines look as if they have been meticulously trimmed, but of course they grow naturally into the umbrella-like shapes.

Impressive stone churches dotted the landscape along the way.

Pisa lies in marsh wetlands in the lovely area of Tuscany. As we journeyed to the picturesque town, we passed an American military base that the tour guide pointed out.  A bit of research told me that the Camp Darby Military Community in Livorno, Italy is a United States Army Garrison.  It is considered to be a small, remote installation with the primary mission of logistically supporting combat deployments that include war reserve storage and maintenance, maintenance of weapons and vehicles, and movement for rapid reaction and crises response operations spanning the globe. The Italian Special Forces Command is housed at Darby. 

Our bus was stuffy and warm, and our driver blew through stop signs and drove at high speeds, but the ride to Pisa was fairly easy. Arriving near the Piazza deli Miracoli, we were ushered to an open-air train-like trolley, and shoved in like sardines, four to each bench that could reasonably hold two or three, depending on the size of the tourist. 

On the trolley ride, because the weather was cold, thick plastic “windows” were pulled down. Over time, the aged plastic had turned opaque.  Not only could we not take any photos, but we could hardly see the sights at all on the quick little tour around the town — just a few blocks. 

How I wished that the trolley had stopped here and there, especially around the Arno River that flows through the city of Pisa, and at the beautiful Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina!  I really wanted to see the stunning little white church on the banks of the Arno.  (When a flood destroyed the original church, it was rebuilt in 1871 in the same materials against the river’s wall.  It has many Gothic pinnacles, spires and niches that are filled with statues of apostles and saints.)

After a quick ride, the trolley returned to its spot near the Piazza deli Miracoli.  We were given a time frame and a choice to explore on our own or follow behind our tour guide.  I’m sure you can guess our choice.

There we were, in the Piazza dei Miracoli Square, the Leaning Tower of Pisa right there in front of us.  It was amazing!  It was gorgeous!  It was a momentous experience for us!  Photos cannot possibly capture its magnificence.  It is a freestanding bell tower or campanile for the cathedral.  (Built in 1173 on swampy ground, it started to collapse when the third floor was placed, but construction continued.  Interventions throughout the years have reduced the slope so that now it is safe and accessible to the public again.)

Across from the tower, in a large grassy courtyard, was a modernistic depiction of a fallen angel crashing into the earth when cast from the heavens.  Spectacular!  So dramatic!

Behind us was the magnificent Duomo, built in 1064.  It is a Pisan-Romanesque-style cathedral, with four part facade, graced with arches and colonnades. Opposite the Duomo is the Battistera de San Giovanni, a gorgeous rounded, domed baptistery built in Romanesque/Gothic style.

I later learned about the fourth amazing architectural wonder in the Piazza dei Miracoli Square, the Camposanto Monument (or Camposanto Vecchio) at the northern edge of the Cathedral Square.  We saw it from a distance, but didn’t realize what it was.  Established in the 12th century, it is graced with marble arcades and is said to contain earth from the Holy Land, shipped from Golgotha, and brought back to Pisa from the Third Crusade. Its beautiful frescoes were severely damaged in World War II bombing.  The monument is actually burial grounds that lie over the ruins of the old baptistery of the church of Santa Reparata.

We walked past the Leaning Tower to a little square where we visited a shop, exchanged dollars into Euros, and purchased a couple of small souvenirs. 

Then we walked past the Leaning Tower back to the trolley stop, where we found a lovely sidewalk cafe.  We ordered a margarita pizza to share and water. Joan enjoyed a huge glass of red wine for only 4 Euros.  As we were wrapping up, the trolley returned and we were once more crammed into the seats.

Back on the bus, we enjoyed a gorgeous sunset as we returned to the ship.

If you ever have an opportunity to visit Pisa, be sure you don’t take an excursion like the one we took — especially if you are on a ship in port overnight.  Instead, arrange for transportation on your own — perhaps a taxi driver who will also serve as your guide.  We talked with a ship crew member who took a taxi/tour guide to Pisa round trip, with three friends, for a total of 80 Euros.

By visiting Pisa on your own, you can take the time to really soak in the Piazza dei Miracoli Square.  Then stroll along the Arno River and visit the Chiesa de Santa Maria della Spina.  Linger at sidewalk cafes.  I imagine Pisa would be a lovely place to spend the night.