Saturday, March 18, 2023
Delightful Surprise
Probably the best thing about this World Cruise is the surprises. We expect Dubai to be “over-the-top;” Kauai to be breathtakingly beautiful; New Zealand to be spectacular in every way; Komodo Island to be primitive and a little dangerous — so many places met and exceeded our expectations. However, the places we know nothing about, despite researching the location as best as possible — the ones we may even be a bit hesitatant about seeing — are the ones that can deliver the most awesome sense of discovery and adventure.
When we awakened just after the Island Princess docked in the port of Mina Qaboos and opened the curtains to our balcony, our eyes widened with surprise. The port is not beautiful. It is surrounded by craggy, rugged, dark, stark rock outcrops. It looked as if this was a mining area, and the port itself was very industrial. How deceiving was this first impression!
Exotic and Mesmerizing
Old Town Muscat, which is the traditional Arabian quarter, is the ancient heart of the Capital of Oman. Centered on its crescent shaped harbor on the Gulf of Oman, the old part of Muscat, where we disembarked, shoulders its way around and through the crevices of craggy, ominous looking rock outcrops. Perched atop the mountains, guarding the harbor, are 16th century Portuguese fortresses and small round cannon turrets.
A shuttle bus took us from the port to the center of the old town, where we crossed the street to walk along the waterfront Corniche, heading toward the Mutrah Fort. Feeding among the rocks and soft waves were beautiful waterfowl, many of which we often see in Florida. Huge bushes of Rose of Sharon and bougainvillea bloomed along the walkways. There were lovely statues of sea life, and the thick, carved ornate banisters were of highly shined granite. Two huge, gleaming white yachts belonging to the Sultan and his family were moored at the dock. Occasional shelters with ornately carved golden domes allowed shade with filtered sunlight. It was sunny and just perfectly warm, about 80 degrees, with a soft, continuous breeze. We felt we could walk all day along the water.
As we reached the fort and we peered upward at the people climbing the steep steps, we walked back, found a crosswalk, and found ourselves in the Muttrah Souq. This sprawling shopping area of old shops on long, narrow corridors, spreads its legs out like a gigantic spider. Some of the spider leg alleys are so narrow, we were not sure we would will fit through, so we passed on those. It is shady and pleasant, and the shops are packed with everything you might possibly want to find — perfume, frankincense, spices, antiques, daggers, silver jewelry and art, gold jewelry, handmade crafts such as wooden boxes delicately decorated with mother of pearl, handmade clothing, art, silks, cashmere. After weaving our way through several of the narrow shopping alleys, we explored the shops that were outside the market, housed in various buildings. One of our favorites was an art gallery, with originals and prints of local paintings.
To me, the Muscat market was much better than the Gold Suk of Dubai. The prices were much better and I preferred the selections as well. A scarf that was $45 in the Dubai markets was $20 in Oman. I bought a tunic like the one I was wearing that day for less than half of what I paid in Sarasota. It is washable silk, lightweight, and can be buttoned to the neck. The same garment was $145 to $180 in Dubai. Probably I could have haggled the prices, but they were so reasonable, I would have been embarrassed to do so.
The primary challenge in shopping such markets, whether you are in Tahiti, Singapore, Dubai, or Oman — is that you cannot look at something without being corralled. If you are shown a scarf you love and say you will buy it, then they pull out dozens of other colors, trying to sell you more. Of course, just as everywhere we have traveled, there are hawkers trying to talk you into going to their store or down this alley, or to go on an excursion. At the end of the day, taken with a spoonful of good humor, it is all great fun.
Respectful Attire when Abroad
What I enjoyed the most about the market in Muscat was watching the people. In Oman, the men wear the most interesting, beautiful, embroidered hats, called Kuma. Like in Dubai, they wear long, white tunics. Because Oman is traditional Muslim, the women are covered from head to toe, mostly in all black. However, the materials are sheer and floating, with subtle colored crystals. As we passed one young women walking with her friend, a breeze gently lifted the veil that was covering the bottom half of her face, revealing her youthful, iridescent beauty, and full, slightly smiling lips. I can definitely see the mystique behind Arabian style clothing.
The design of clothing in Arabian countries is well designed for the climate. Clothing covering almost the entire body protects you from the sun, which can be brutal. The clothing is loose, allowing the breezes to cool you down, but when desert nights become chilly, you are well covered. Cliff had bought a sheer black scarf with kiwi birds printed on it for me the last time he visited New Zealand. It was perfect when we were walking along the waterfront in Muscat, when the sun was beating down on my head. As soon as I draped it over my head, my body temperature dropped. My mid-thigh silk tunic and light, loose knit slacks felt perfect for the climate.
In many countries that we are visiting, knees and shoulders, and sometimes arms, need to be covered. For women, in many areas you visit around the world, whether it’s Asia, India, Arabia, Europe or Morocco — you can’t go wrong with long loose slacks and a lightweight tunic. The outfit is respectful to the Muslim cultures, and you just add a lightweight opaque scarf for going inside temples or mosques. Even better, pack light, leaving room in your suitcase, and purchase clothing along the way. Many women on the cruise are wearing cotton pants, patterned in elephants or paisley, that they purchased along the way in countries such Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Dubai, or loose dresses purchased in Hawaii or Tahiti. Fortunately, in cruise port cities and towns, the Muslim people are a bit more understanding of tourists and don’t expect us to dress exactly like them. However, they appreciate it when we respect their culture and don’t bare our skin.
Unique Rock Formations
Oman is the only country in the world composed mostly of oceanic crust and rocks that originate from the earth’s mantle. It looks very different from mountains that most of us are accustomed to seeing. It is brutal looking. The tremendous forceful movements of continental plates pushed earth’s mantle and crust from miles beneath the ocean to form these rugged mountains that traverse most of Oman.
What is interesting is that this type of peridotite rock, which is usually below the earth’s surface, is not only very different looking, but it actually removes planet-warming carbon dioxide from the air and turns it into stone. Veins of white carbonate minerals run through the slabs of dark rock (like fat in a marbled steak), surrounds pebbles, and turns gravel into mosaics. Copper, gold, silver, chromite, lead, nickel, manganese and zinc mineral reservers lie plentiful in Oman, but are mostly undeveloped because of the preference for oil mining.
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