March 16-17, 2023
Museum of the Future, as seen from Sheikh Zayed Road. Just over a year old, the museum explores how our society could evolve in the future through science and technology.
The tallest in the world, the biggest in the world, the most opulent, the most grand, lavish and expensive -- Dubai strives for over-the-top extravagance as it stretches in the world of trade and tourism. Dubai's Atlantis has the largest waterpark in the world. The opulent Burj Al Arab Hotel, built in the shape of a sail, is the tallest all-suite hotel in the world over water, and rooms start at $10,000 U.S. dollars per night. The tallest building in the world is the Burj Khalifa, with the elevator racing visitors in only two minutes to deck 124, where they will see panoramic views of the city, desert and ocean. The Fountain at the Burj Khalifa is the most powerful and largest automated fountain in the world, shooting water 426 feet high. Palm Jumeriah, the world's largest artificial island, can be seen from space. The World's Largest Frame, which is plated in gold, has an elevator inside to move passengers to the top, where they will enjoy views of both the old and new Dubai, serving as a "metaphorical bridge that connects the rich emirate's past with its present."
Considering that this city was literally built within about 50 years, it truly is impressive. This area was basically dessert, with what is now Dubai a pearl diving and fishing village. When the region gained independence from Great Britain in 1971, the seven emirates joined together to form the UAE. A great and glistening city arose as a great showpiece of architecture and design.
For a large city, Dubai is exceptionally quiet, with few people walking around the streets, except for the busy Gold Souk area. Of all the ports, we thought that Dubai had the most efficient and modernized customs process. Cliff and I never waited in line. Even the processing of our belongings through the scanner was the most automated we have ever seen. Everything in the city seems to be the most modern, efficient, and esthetically well designed as possible.
Yet -- again, Dubai is eerily quiet. You never hear people laughing, and certainly no partying or exuberance. It is like a magnificent showpiece that you can look at but not touch...like that expensive piece of jewelry you love but never wear. The city lacks vibrancy and joy. There is no heartbeat. It is more preserved perfection than alive and vital. We didn't feel that we really breathe deep and feel alive in it.
The Gold Souk
Dubai's nickname is "The City of Gold," reinforced by a large open air old shopping district, the Gold Souk, which is store after store of bright yellow gold jewelry, including actual items of clothing in pure gold. It's beyond your imagination -- you would just have to experience it yourself.
If you wanted to buy gold, which shop would you chose? Walking through the Gold Souk, which is next to the Silver Souk and the Spice Souk, is an overwhelming experience, not just because there are so many shops selling incredible amounts of the same thing, but also because of the aggressive hawkers trying to get you into their shops. Adding to that is the pandemonium of locals bumping into tourists as if we were invisible.
Stunning City Skyine and Warm Weather
As the Island Princess slid into port at dawn, we watched the sunrise peek through and rise over the spectacularly modernistic and almost impossibly designed high rises. Drifting through the sky over the harbor, one after the other, were paragliders who were jumping from skyscrapers. Small planes were taking off from a narrow runway that ran parallel from the ship.
The futuristic architecture was what we expected, and more. A pervasive haze draped itself over the city, which thickened at dawn and sunset. Humidity surprised us in this desert area, but Dubai has a wide "creek" natural inlet (that looked more like a river) running through it, and the city sits on the southern shores of the Persian Gulf.
Where there was shade and a breeze, it was almost pleasant, but even at 9:00 A.M., the direct sun felt like it would sear your skin in seconds. July is the hottest month, with temperatures that can exceed 120 degrees. In January, the lows at night could dip to 49. Overall, the year-round climate is HOT, with the residents heavily dependent on living indoors, with air-conditioning.
In Dubai, it is not recommended that tourists try to walk anywhere in the city, but hail a taxi instead. Another option is a hop-on hop-off bus, which about $80 per person. We were impressed by the elevated metro rail system, which is fully automated and driverless, with incredibly futuristic looking stations.
Old Dubai
On our excursion, however, it was not the "glitter and glam" that impressed us the most. What we loved was the historic Al Bastakiya district, with older buildings lining the western shore of Dubai Creek. We felt like we were in an old Arabian movie set. Our guide showed us the foundations of the houses, which were carved from the coral reefs. The designs of the homes were brilliant. Expensive porous coral reef foundations allow air to circulate up into the homes.
Additionally, the homes were crowned with the wind tower design imported by the Persian merchants early in the 20th century. The "barjeel" was their air conditioning, no electricity required. Barjeels operate on air pressure differentials. They have square towers with openings on all four sides, a roof, and a wind shaft that allows hot air to escape and cool air to move inside. Wet cloth can be draped over poles around the openings to further cool the air. Although the old district was paved with flat, smooth cut stone, the structures and towers provided shade and a breeze. The walk was our most comfortable of the day.
Disappointing Excursion with Misleading Description
What we have found on many of our excursions during our world cruise is that what is promised is not what is always delivered. The description of the tour included a visit to the tallest building in the world. We never stopped there. Neither did we stop at the Dubai Museum in Fahidi Fort (1787), which we were very excited about seeing. In fact, the name of the excursion was "Dubai Museum & Gold souk," but there was no museum at all on the actual tour, and no fort.
Had you seen the primitive wooden abra boat we were shuffled onto for a ride across the creek, you would have been horrified. There were no life jackets or railings -- just a rough wooden bench, with nothing to hold onto. The boat driver took off with some of us still standing, almost throwing us overboard. Apparently, Dubai doesn't have the same safety standards as we do in the United States.
Our tour guide worked hard to keep us confused. He talked too fast in his thick accent, and the volume was too low for us to hear. Then when we were out of the bus, he would herd us all in one direction, then stop, and then he would take us back in another direction, sometimes risking our lives jaywalking. At one point, on the way to the Gold Souk, he directed us down some steep steps to walk beneath the street, including those with walkers and canes. Then after half of us were already downstairs, he took those with mobility issues across the busy street, risking life and limb in the confusing traffic. He would choose one meeting place, then walk us a block down, losing half of the folks along the way, and then tell us that he would meet us at this spot instead.
In the couple of places we did visit, there was not enough time to see much of anything, much less purchase something. Fortunately, we did not sign up for that many excursions prior to the cruise. Many have been a huge disappointment. We understand that travel has just recently opened up after lengthy Covid closures, and host countries might not be quite back up to where they were with hosting cruise lines, but they should at least deliver in the promise of what the title of the tour promises. Perhaps we might have seen and done more if we explored on our own.
Dubai's Enormous Wealth
Most of us think of Dubai's wealth having an oil-based economy, but that is not the case. It is true that the city's infrastructure was built on oil wealth from the 1960s to the 1990s, but the world-wide recession redirected the city's focus from oil wealth to trade as the core of their economy. Dubai has two of the world's largest ports and a busy international air cargo hub.
Additionally, free zones allow foreign companies to operate from Dubai without needing a local partner. One free zone has over 6,400 companies, many from Europe and North America. Starting in the 1990s, Dubai began promoting itself as a luxury tourist destination, building grandiose resorts and attractions. The city hosts increasingly large numbers of international sporting events to boost tourism as well.
No Taxes?
Many expatriates are attracted to Dubai because there are no income or sales taxes. The open, tax free business model, which dates back to 1905, contributes to the success of the city. On the surface, that sounds wonderful, but no country can survive without some sort of income from taxes. The UAE does have a corporate tax on oil companies of 55% and foreign banks at 22%.
A great source of income for the UAE, which has tremendous debt, is the high entertainment taxes. Restaurants and hotels have a 10% "service charge," which is actually a tax sent straight to the government. Therefore, the tourists are paying the taxes. On an excursion from our ship, tourists were charged a 5% tax on their purchases at the mall. The UAE also heavily taxes items considered to be detrimental to human or environmental health -- alcohol, tobacco, arms, ammunition. Instead of enforcing compliance with Islamic principles, they make it too expensive not to comply.
Electricity is taxed at the source, and there are also high tolls on the roads. Parking is owned by the state and the charges are very steep, which encourages people to take public transportation. Additionally, visa processing fees are high. High charges for flying out of the country help maintain the airports.
In the future, more taxes may be added, because the government debt is huge. After June 2023, businesses that have been exempt from corporate taxes will start paying 9% if they earn over $100,000 USD. Potentially, this could cause some companies to pull out of Dubai.
Population
Dubai is the most populous city of the seven United Arab Emirates. The population is 64% in the age range of 25 to 54 in the UAE, with only two percent 65 and older, and it is 69% male. Our guide told us that the unemployment rate is well below two percent, because basically, if you don't work, you aren't allowed to stay in the country. Expatriates working in Dubai far outnumber the residents.
Our tour guide bragged about "no crime," because everyone works. On the other hand, we must keep in mind how strict and severe punishment for crime is in Dubai. For example, he said that anyone caught selling illegal drugs is executed.
The guide also kept saying that women have more rights in Dubai than men. I'm sure there are different sides to debate on that issue. We must keep in mind that men in Dubai can have up to four wives, "as long as he provides equal sustenance and treatment to all of them."
Poverty and Human Rights Violations?
Our guide showed us Al-Fahidi, which he referred to as the "poorest" section of the city and said that rents there run about $50,000 (U.S. dollars) a year. Clothes were hung out to dry on most of balconies, and the outside of the condos seemed dirtier than the rest of the gleaming city, but the area looked more like lower middle class than truly "poor."
The guide said that you can work in the country, renewing your work visa every two years, but once you reach age 59, you "retire," you are given a sum of money as a gift from the government, and sent back home. If you suspect that there is something more to this, you are right. It doesn't take much research to learn the truth.
The guide did not mention that the laborers are housed in work camps far beyond the city limits. The laborers mainly come from countries such as India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and China. Their passports are seized as soon as they enter the country. They mostly work in construction because they have never had the opportunity for a formal education.
I read that most of the laborers send the majority of their income home and try to subsist on the little bit that is left. They are not allowed to be in unions, there is no minimum wage, and they must receive permission from their employer to change or quit jobs. Employers may owe them several months of back wages, which traps the laborers in the UAE because they cannot afford to fly home. According to one of the online articles I read, laborers live in 12 ft. x 12 ft. rooms with six beds, sleeping 6 to 8 people. The article said that the photographer who took photos of one of the camps (called Sonapur) at night to avoid detection was caught and arrested for exposing the living conditions. These areas are restricted to the public.
Over-the-Top Displays of Wealth
Even without the knowledge of the labor camps, you sense that behind the shining, golden plated, pristine city of Dubai, there must be some discreet corruption. While the United States also has great disparity between the richest the poorest, Dubai is even more "in your face" with the wealth. For example, our tour guide shared with us that having a low number on your license plate is a show of wealth. Of course, the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum (vice president and prime minister of the UAE) has the number one, which cost him $9.5 million. No one else can have that number. In October 2016, a Dubai based businessman purchased at auction the license plate with D5 on it for over 33 million UAE dirham.
There are three distinct classes in the UAE.
The upper class Emirates -- the top one percent -- who hold 22.8% of the total income and 50% of the country's wealth.
Expatriates and the middle class, such as foreign workers and merchants.
The lower class, which comprises migrant workers who are impoverished laborers working and living in horrifying conditions. They comprise 50% of the population, making only 5.8% of the income.
The Allure of Dubai
For tourists who are mostly shielded from any sights of poverty, Dubai can be a phenomenal vacation spot. Certainly, the warm breezes on the water, lounging in the shade must feel wonderful for those escaping cold winters. For expatriates, it might be a great place to work or establish their business.
The city is exceptionally clean -- truly beyond immaculate. Glistening skyscrapers in dramatic designs that most of us have never seen bring excitement and wonder. The historic sections are fascinating, and the glistening white and delicately carved mosques are mystical and alluring.
When everyone stops for the daily Islamic prayer wafting through the high mounted speakers five times a day, you almost feel out of body, whisked away to this unfamiliar and captivating place and time, almost expecting to turn and see an Arabian knight on his camel rushing toward you, waving a scimitar above his head, white robes floating around him in the shimmering desert heat.
When the city lights slowly come on at dusk through the haze, and brightly lit yachts cruise through the harbor, it is magical.
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