Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy

December 8, 2024

One of the most anticipated stops on this cruise was Cagliari, Sardinia.  From everything I read, it is a city to walk around and enjoy, which we planned to do.  We hoped to walk to the Castello, a medieval walled quarter situated high over town, and perhaps visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Cagliari.  We had read about the Caribbean-like clear waters, the pink flamingos, and historic architecture.

It was so bitter cold, that when Cliff, Joan and I stepped off the ship, we debated whether to just turn around and go back.  We thought we would check out the little shop in the port and just think about it.  Finally, we reached consensus that, since this was our first time in Sardinia, we must forge ahead.  At least we should try the local cuisine.

After walking around a bit, we asked a pizza shop owner where we could find a good sit-down restaurant.  He had only outside seating.  Not an option.  The first restaurant we saw looked amazing, but it was packed, with people standing outside, drinking wine, waiting to get in.  As patrons left, cheek kisses were exchanged with the restaurant owner and with others waiting to get inside.  It was obvious that this was locals only on Sunday.

Shivering, we reluctantly walked on through a beautiful shopping area. Christmas decorations were everywhere. The people were beautiful and classy, many walking their little dogs, enjoying this quiet, cold Sunday afternoon.

We happened upon two young men in handsome uniforms, guarding what looked like a palace. It was the tourism welcome center!

We turned down one of the many lovely side streets to search for a restaurant and felt fortunate to find a lovely spot with beautiful decorations and a warm family atmosphere. Warm. We wanted to be warm!

At first, it was quiet, and then families came spilling in, one after the other. We loved being able to enjoy the locals in their element, in this little seafood cuchina.

The ravioli was silky, melting in my mouth. Cliff had linguini with clams. Judging from this one restaurant, the food in Sardinia is distinctly different from the rest of Italy. Like Greece, the wealth of the sea is featured dominantly in their cuisine.

With the weather growing colder, we walked back to the ship, hoping some day to return and see more of this beautiful, second largest island in the Mediterranean.

A Bit of History

Like all of the regions we visited in the Mediterranean, Sardinia was occupied by many cultures through the ages. After the nuraghic prehistoric indigenous era, came the Phonecian shippers and traders, followed by the Greeks. Carthaginians coexisted peacefully with the indigenous, but then later began to conquer the rest of the island, driving the Proto-Sardinians into the mountains. Then came the Romans, as evidenced by the ubiquitous Roman theater ruins that we saw everywhere throughout the Mediterranean. The Vandals, the Byzantines, the Goths, Arab raiders (the Saracens), the Moorsish Corsairs...many different peoples invaded this strategically located island.

Pope Benedict VIII urged Christian states to organize, driving out the Moors. Now Sardinia was under Papal rule. Eventually Sardinia was unified under the Argonese and later fell under the Spanish monarchy and became plagued by Barbary pirates. French fleets invaded the island.

During the War of the Spanish Succession, an English fleet bombarded the island, which surrendered. After that, Sardinia became an Austrian territory. The Spanish retook the island, and the House of Savoy became rulers. Then during the French Revolutionary Wars, the French attacked Sardinia.

Finally, Sardinia came under the rule of Italy in 1861. During World War II, the island's airfields were used by the Axis powers for attacks in the Mediterranean. In 1943, Allied forces led air attacks against the island. Then in September 1943, the Italians drove out the last of the German forces. Finally, in 1948, Sardinia became an autonomous, self-governing region of Italy.

Because of all of the different cultures and nations that occupied Sardinia throughout history, it has developed its own melting pot culture and culture, with their own unique folklore and crafts. Annual festivals highlight horsemanship and beautifully embroidered costumes. Music and dancing is often accompanied by launeddas (triple pipes). We would love to attend one of the many Sardinian festivals some day, to experience more of their rich cultures.