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Bay of Islands, New Zealand

Friday, February 10, 2023


Note: Because we crossed the International Dateline Monday night at midnight, we lost a day, so we are one day ahead of the United States.


We awoke just before dawn, and then we were treated to a beautiful sunrise peeking over the hills, as our ship cruised slowly into the Bay of Islands. What an appropriate name! Gorgeous islands surrounded us in the sparkling blue bay.



Bay of Islands is located in the Northland region of New Zealand’s North Island, and it stretches out over the Pacific Ocean.


We opened the balcony door to cool weather, about 58 degrees — a sharp and welcome difference from the muggy heat from the tropical weather we have experienced ever since our first stop in Cartagena. The weather started cooling gradually after we left Pago Pago. The high for this day was predicted to be around 74 degrees.



There is no way that any photo can possibly capture the stunning beauty of Bay of Islands. Even an aerial view cannot completely do it justice.



As we were getting dressed for our excursion adventure, we could hear and feel the anchors crunching out of the ship. A water shuttle would be required, and we would be using our ship’s life boats. There was over an hour’s wait for those who did not sign up for an excursion.


After we boarded our large air conditioned bus and the driver took off, and started talking about the land formations and earthquakes. He said, “In fact, we just had an earthquake about a half an hour ago.” We never felt it. Probably, we were in the shuttle boat out in the bay when it happened.


We drove through lush, rolling hills, with fields of cows and sheep. The driver talked about the quality of the soil and how well suited it and the climate is in this area for growing fruit. He pointed out orange and persimmon groves and kiwi vines. Had he not told us, I would have though they were grape vines. We passed through a bustling town, KerKeri, maneuvering through several roundabouts. As you may know, vehicles drive on the left in New Zealand.


Our first destination was KeriKeri Mission Station, also known as the Kemp House. Mission Station is New Zealand’s oldest kauri building, completed in 1822. Kauri is a tall, coniferous tree that has broad leathery leaves. Bay of Island was once covered in the towering kauri trees, which grow over 164 feet high. The British traders sought out the trees for the building of ship masts, but now they are protected in the Puketi Forest.




We opened the balcony door to cool weather, about 58 degrees — a sharp and welcome difference from the muggy tropical heat that we experienced ever since our first stop in Cartagena. The weather cooled gradually after we left Pago Pago. The high for this day was predicted to be around 74 degrees.


Next to the Kemp House was the Stone Store, a former trading post and new Zealand’s oldest stone building.



Across the street was a beautiful little restaurant with covered and outdoor seating. We were greeted with fluffy English scones, jam, clotted cream and hot tea.



Cliff went inside to the bar area for a local pilsner brew, and I sampled a Savignon Blanc.




All of this overlooked a small secluded inlet that looked like a lake, a tall arching footbridge, and green swaths of grass covered in ducks, geese and sea gulls. I thought, “Okay, I don’t want to leave here.” We wish we could have stayed. The Bay of Islands area is indescribably beautiful, and pristine.




Next, we boarded the bus again to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, which is near where we had landed in the water shuttle. Bay of Islands remains a home for the Maori, whose ancestors arrived to the shores of New Zealand (Aotearoa) over 1,000 years ago.






During our three sea days from Pago Pago to Bay of Islands, Princess offered Haka lessons (the words and dance moves) and a little bit of Maori language lessons, which we enjoyed. We have been learning about the Maori ever since a previous visit to New Zealand (over 20 years ago). Cliff’s daughter, Sara, married Aaron, who is a native New Zealander, and they have been living on the South Island in Christchurch for over two decades. Their daughter Madison is eleven years old. Sara and Madison will be meeting us in Auckland, Tauranga, and Wellington.


Learning about the Maori culture and history is fascinating. If you ever have a chance to visit New Zealand, be sure to immerse yourself in learning about the Maori through visiting authentic villages, witnessing the Haka, and touring museums.


Nine hundred years after Aotearoa (Land of the Long White Cloud) became the homeland of the Maori, British Captain James Cook became the first European to sail into the bay. The first permanent British settlement and New Zealand’s first capital was Russell in Bay of Islands.


In 1940, the Treaty of Waitangi recognized Maori ownership of their lands and other properties and gave them rights as British subjects, while Britain gained all of New Zealand. Our guide at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds was Maori. He talked with great pride about how the Maori chieftain insisted on traveling to England to meet with leaders face-to-face, and he said that the Maori are the only people to have such a treaty with England. The Waitangi Treaty Grounds are highly acclaimed as the “Birthplace of a Nation,” and is New Zealand’s most historic site.


We toured Treaty House, which was actually constructed in Australia, and moved to this particular spot in Bay of Islands. The grounds of the Waitangi estate are extensive, with flowering gardens, beaches, and expansive lush green lawns overlooking the bay.


We also toured the traditional Maori meeting house. Usually the meeting houses were always constructed facing the rising sun in the east, but this one faces south, toward the Treaty House. Our guide proudly pointed out a tree that had been planted by Queen Elizabeth II herself.


Next, we walked down a path along the water to look at ceremonial carved war canoes, one of which listed in the Guiness Book of World Records as the world’s largest ceremonial war canoe, 115 feet long. The canoe, which is carved out of a single log and took three years to build, is called Ngatokimatawhaorua. It is under a shelter with another that is about 3/4 as long. Our guide said it was recently taken out into Hobson’s Bay in celebration of Waitangi Day.


A Few Maori Words and Phrases

  • Aotearoa New Zealand

  • Te Reo The Maori language

  • Kia Ora Hello or Cheers

  • Kei te pehea koe? How are you? or How's it going?

  • Kei te pai Good

  • Tino pai Really good

  • He konei ra Goodbye or See you later

  • Haere ra Farewell

  • Ka kite ano Until I see you again (Bye)

  • Haere mai Welcome

  • Mo rena Morning!

  • Po marie Good night

  • Arohahnui Much love

  • Kia kaha Be strong or Sending prayers





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